Sometimes this job is difficult, writing articles for the site takes time and commitment and for certain projects it also takes a hands on approach to learn a skill I am writing about - this is most certainly what had to happen in order to pen this article. Let me just say that although this assignment was physical and required learning it was also one of the most fun things I have ever had a chance to do.

I was invited down to join a day at Jimmy Fireblades Bandit Wheelie School near Spilsby in Lincolnshire, the day is aimed at people just like me who want to get their front wheel off the ground but are held back by either no clue on how to do it or in my case those who are scared to bin their bike trying it.

Jimmy supplies specially setup Suzuki Bandit 600's for each of the 5 students he books for the day - NO bike sharing, or massive groups - simply 5 students on a bike they get for the entire day to learn on. The wheelie technique he teaches is off the clutch, no power wheelies as he says power wheelies are more difficult to control and are usually performed at higher speeds than his clutch technique requires, as someone who has now experienced this I can indeed confirm that the wheelies are done at very low speeds and feel entirely safe and under control even when you are a complete novice.

I am sure many of us on here has had to spend lots of our hard earned cash on getting ourselves kitted out and getting the bike.

Here is a few tips that I hope someone might be able to make use of and hope others continue to add.

1. The kit
We all want to be safe but also look the part. At the end of the day you have got to be comfortable in what ever you wear and it has to fit right. Go to lots of bike shops and try lots of things on, don't settle for something cause you want to get out on the bike or because you feel pushed by the salesman. If they are be too pushing, tell them, if they don't get the message then walk away. They need the sale more than you, there is plenty of shops out there. Shop around and be cheeky and ask for discount, you dont know unless you ask.

Start of with getting the right jacket and trouser/one piece. You want elbow, shoulder and back protection, you can buy a back protector separately and well worth it. Make sure they fit everywhere they should, don't rub and feel comfortable, if you have a bike take it with you, any decent shop will allow you to try it on and sit on your bike. It wants to be tight, more so leathers but you still want to be able to move and reach the handlebars. Make the adjustments where needed to ensure it will adjust to fit you, don't assume they will.

Once you have the main garment that fits you need boots and gloves, find a pair for the time of year and for the correct conditions you will use them for. Different makes will fit a different type of person. Try on both gloves/boots to make sure they are both the same size. Once you are happy, put everything on and make sure it all fits and you can put it on together.

You then need a good lid. You can get some good lids for a reasonable price but like everything in life, you get what you pay for. Normally the more you pay the better the lid but this is not always the case as you can pay heavily for the design. It wants to be a tight fit but again comfortable but put slight pressure on your cheeks and forehead, when its on you should be able to shake your head vigorously and it wont move.

You are now ready to jump on a bike and go.

Whether you parked your Steed for the Winter, or Rode throughout, this is the time to clean it up, and address any Service Issues. Doing this Service yourself can save a great deal of Money (better spent on Fuel!), in addition to becoming familiar with your Machine. Understanding how your Bike works, and what you need to do to repair it is vital in forseeing issues as they begin to appear, prior to them leaving you stranded on the road!
One of the most overlooked items is the Drive Chain, and although it is a bit of a chore, it is a very important item to address. Cleaning your Drive Chain is not very difficult to do, although it does require you to remove it from the Bike, which, if you include remounting it, is really the bulk of the work! A regularly cleaned Drive Chain will last longer, and it should be done at least once a year, to clean off excess Chain Oil Build Up, Flush Grit from the Rollers, and fully Renew the Chain Oil.
This a layout of how to get it done:

Step 1: Remove the Drive Chain. Depending on the Bike, and the Type of Chain, it may involve some serious dismantling if there is no Master Link. Consult a Workshop Manual for your Machine if you are not familiar with the procedure.

Step 2: Lay the Drive Chain in a suitable Pan. A Cookie Sheet is used in the Pictures Below. Never soak the Drive Chain in any type of Solution! The majority of Modern Drive Chains are O-ring Chains, and cleaning them in harsh Solvents will damage the Rubber O-rings that are pinched between the Links, which serve to keep Oil in, and Water/Grit out, extending the Life of the Chain. Non O-ring Chains look more like a Bicycle Chain, and you can identify if your Chain is an O-ring by looking between the Outside/Inside Links where you will find the small Rubber O-rings. O-ring Drive Chains should always be washed in either Diesel, or Kerosene, as these do not cause any damage to the Rubber, and effectively remove old Oils. I prefer Diesel, as it smells better than Kerosene!
Pour a small amount over the Drive Chain, and allow it to set for a moment, before scrubbing it with a Stiff Bristle Brush. Pictured are Nylon Bristles, which are strong enough to remove grime, but do not damage the O-rings. Never use a Wire Brush to clean an O-ring Drive Chain! To minimumize waste, wash both sides of the Chain with the same Solution, by dabbing the Brush into the material still in the Pan. By keeping it coiled, it can be easily flipped over for the other side. Make sure to work between the Links.

Step 3: Using Compressed Air, and a Nail with which to hang the Drive Chain from (in a place that won't mater if it gets grimy), blast the Drive Chain free of the Solution, and any remaining grime that is loose on it. Work from top to bottom down each side, stopping with a rag to wipe it down a few times. This Step may take several passes before the Drive Chain is clean, and free of Solution. Take some time during this Step to inspect each of the Rollers, to make certain that they spin freely. If you find a Roller(s) that does not, return to the Pan, and work it gently with a pair of Needle Nose Plyers, and a liberal amount of Solution untill it breaks free. A stuck Roller will cause a Drive Chain to bind at that Link, which will fail if neglected, resulting in a pile of Chain wadded up in the Sprocket Box, likely destroying the Countershaft Sprocket!

The British Superbike Championship is just around the corner and many Supersport riders are gearing up for the start of a new biking season. Kawasaki is pleased to announce that the successful 'Pole Position' 0% Finance campaign has been extended and the widely acclaimed 2008 Ninja ZX-10R is to be added to the line up.

Also available on the fantastic finance package is the awesome 600cc Ninja ZX-6R, the Z1000, its streetfighter styled little brother, the Z750, and the genuine all-rounder ER-6f, both of which enjoy a recommended retail price reduction for 2008.

'Pole Position', offered through Kawasaki's K-Care Finance partner, Black Horse, provides 0% finance over 30 months with a minimum deposit of only £99. It is available at franchised Kawasaki road bike dealers nationwide and other low rate options are also available.

"We wanted our customers to be the first to ride a brand new bike this Spring and with the addition of the Ninja ZX-10R they now have an amazing range of machines to choose from," said Michael Johnstone, Kawasaki Motors UK Sales Manager.

To take advantage of this grid full of great offers visit your franchised Kawasaki road bike dealer today or visit www.kawasaki.co.uk for full details.